But you wait. You observe. The waves are bigger than normal. A group of inexperienced surfers are trying to paddle out. They are paddling as hard as they can but with the strong currents they’re not moving fast enough and are stuck in the break. Wave after wave is pummeling them. Slowly, each one begins to give up as you grab your surfboard and head into the water at a point where only a few yards away you observed a riptide.
Experience, knowledge and observation allow you to leverage the unpredictable, and at times, dangerous elements of the ocean to your advantage as you paddle out past the forcefully breaking waves. Peace, serenity, and a passing pod of curious dolphins await your arrival. But that’s not why you're here.
Leaping to your feet, your look left. The board follows as if it’s taking orders directly from your eyes. The body takes control of the moment, but your eyes plan for the next. The wave begins to close out. Your head turns toward shore, and without a thought your body pivots its weight along the outside rail of the surfboard which results in a smooth transition away from the closeout section.